Please use this sheet as a guide to proper Garter Care. I've found after years of keeping Garters this way works best for me.

Substrate - Newspaper works great, as they defecate, replace as needed. Other good substrates are Tekfresh or carefresh. These products are comprised of wood byproducts and are very pliable, allowing them to pass safely if ingested (in small quantities per the product’s labeling).

Heat source - Although not mandatory, a heat source will benefit your snake. Use either an under the tank heater or flexwatt heat tape. If using flexwatt, make sure you use a dimmer switch. Without a dimmer switch, flexwatt heat tape gets VERY hot and can potentially harm the snakes. Place the heat source at one end of the cage. This way the snake will have the option of going to either the warm, heated end or to the cool, room temperature end. Optimum daytime temp is 85 degrees Fahrenheit; nighttime temps should drop to the mid 70’s. A timer works great to automatically turn the tape on and off at desired times.

Water bowl - I prefer small, heavy water bowls. These tend to be stable and difficult to tip over. Garters do tend to defecate in their water bowls occasionally so check their water frequently. Place the water bowl at the opposite end of where the heat source lies.

Hide box - To finalize your snake’s setup, place a hide box in their cage, 2 if using a heat source. Place one at the cool end of the cage and the other over the heat source.

Miscellaneous - Another good item to keep on hand are small, jagged rocks. These help to facilitate the shedding of their skin.

Diet - Baby garter snakes feed upon Rosy feeder fish, guppies, goldfish and earthworms. If you use this dietary plan on a long term basis, make sure and supplement their diet with a vitamin supplement, Reptomin works great. As your snake matures, rodents make a healthy, vitamin-enriched diet. Vitamin supplements are NOT necessary if feeding snakes rodents. ** If you are feeding in a group setting, make sure and feed separate and/or watch them closely. After feeding, wash them off thoroughly in water

Hibernation - Brumating is not mandatory for babies in their first year of life and would recommend not doing so unless they go off feed in the fall or winter (3 successive meals without eating and they are NOT in shed). If they do go off feed then it is best to put them down into hibernation. 55 degrees is the optimum temperature for hibernating. Fluctuations of plus or minus 5 degrees are acceptable as this emulates natural fluctuations in the wild. When hibernating, place them in complete darkness, provide them with fresh water and check on them periodically. Adults are prepped for hibernation by feeding the collection heavily for the month before they are to be put down. This helps to fatten them up for their long winter sleep. From the last meal that they are fed, wait three to four weeks (two and a half to three weeks for babies) so to allow them time to clean out their systems of all fecal and urine matter.